So we were expecting Gallic flair from this top-ranked cruise line and were not disappointed; the gentle background murmur of French accents added a certain je ne sais quoi as we were welcomed aboard in Dunedin by staff in chic uniforms and whisked through elegant surroundings to our suite.
This was compact but stylish, with a pillow menu and Diptyque toiletries in the bathroom — all sustainably packaged in line with the Ponant ethos. There was a small, but very full frigo-bar and a Nespresso machine, which was given a good workout.
A large balcony meant plenty of opportunity for drinks en plein air and a huge TV screen in front of which we could relax — a calming replay reel of dolphins frolicking to ambient music was a particularly European touch.
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READ MORE: Christchurch to Antarctica on Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot cruise ship
PETITE FRANCE
Our first stop was in Akaroa, aptly, given the French flavour of the cruise. Le Laperouse sailed slowly into the harbour, allowing plenty of time to enjoy the beau paysage of the old volcanic crater, with commentary from the onboard experts — and to spot a pod of curious Hector’s dolphins.
Though most guests had opted to take a catamaran cruise of the harbour, the sun was shining so it was pleasant to stroll the town’s pretty streets, and catch the Zodiac back in time for another of the ship’s charming traditions: “tea time”.
Each day the chef patissier prepared a selection of themed treats to enjoy, often French — macarons, choux, crepes — but on this voyage he gave a nod to New Zealand, so pavlova also featured. And everything tastes better with Champagne.
LA MER
The next day as Le Laperouse made her way across the Chatham Rise to New Zealand’s most outlying islands, wandering albatross, mollymawks and petrels, great and small, were our constant and mesmerising companions.
The abundant birdlife at sea is one of the fabulous things about cruising in this part of the world. Cameras and binoculars are of course, essential equipment, but it was a simple pleasure just to sit and watch them wheel above and surf the currents in the wake of the ship.
L’AVENTURE
Le Laperouse’s expedition team is made up of experts in their field — naturalists, plant and bird experts and ecologists — and we were lucky to have the company of GNS geologist emeritus Hamish Campbell on this voyage.
Of Coast NZ TV fame, he has been visiting the Chathams for many years and is an expert and enthusiast on many aspects of the islands’ history and geology — so his presentations were particularly enlightening.
Hamish gave us brief rundown on the up-and-down geological record of the islands. Part of the Zealandia continent, they have spent 65 million of the past 70 million years under water. He also explained the history of the Moriori settlement — and their later near-extermination by Māori fleeing from their own enemies on the mainland.
ZODIAQUE
Our waka arrived at the Chathams on a fairly brisk day and the expedition crew immediately got to work in the Zodiacs.
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As their team leader, South African Dain Adamson, explained later, there is a lot of work that goes on behind the scenes to ensure that shore excursions go off without a hitch and those adrenaline-fuelled rides are as safe (and exciting) as possible; charting the best course to take to shore; even ensuring the ship is facing in the right direction so guests can comfortably enter and exit the craft.
It was touch and go at first that we would make it off the ship, but the wind eased and a window was declared. The rain was still pelting down, so our first sail around the island was a little wet and wild, but that’s all part of the fun, and the Chathams coastline in close up from a Zodiac — c’est tellement beau et sauvage! The weather cleared in the afternoon and we were able to disembark for a stroll onshore.
BELLE ISLE
The next day we landed on Pitt Island for a short early hike past the island’s incredible feral sheep. With their huge curling horns and long tangled hair these mouflons looked like a kind of ancestral ovine, but are descended from a merino-type breed introduced in the 1800s. Nowadays the islanders — and visitors — hunt the sheep, which along with its famous seafood, like crays and blue cod, form part of an enviable diet.
However, as our guides explained, the islanders have to be fairly self-sufficient — hunting, fishing and growing their own produce, everything else is shipped in.
Unlike most of us the Chatham Islanders are also allowed to eat weka — which was introduced to the islands in the early 20th century, has since become a pest, and apparently is “better than chicken”. Our walk ended with a slightly less intrepid but no less tasty menu, a morning tea of pāua fritters and home-baked bread at Flowerpot Lodge, site of the original European homestead.
A last Zodiac tour of the islands came with a bubbly surprise. Rounding the point we were astonished to see barman Sebastien and helpers in another Zodiac filled with champagne bottles and glasses! A skilful manouevre brought us alongside where drinks were passed over and much merriment ensued. Salut!
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ALORS!
So we bid adieu to the Chatham Islands, but not before our close encounter with a rock star. One that has been around for many, many years ... though you may not have heard the name. At first sight, the Pyramid, actually the Chathams’ youngest volcano, is breathtaking: a huge conical stack of rock rising solitary from the seabed south of Pitt Island.
Tarakoikoia in Māori, the French named it La Cloche — the Bell, presumably from its shape, though geologist Hamish explained that this was particularly apt as the island is formed from a unique phonolite material, which makes a ringing sound when struck.
Ecologically precious, the Pyramid is the only nesting site of the Chatham Island mollymawk, distinctive with its dark head and yellow beak. As we sailed close enough to see the birds circling the top of the island, Hamish explained that the Pyramid itself was also endangered, as the rock has a large fissure and a big enough earthquake could cause it to crumble into the sea.
BONNE CUISINE
Guest chef Norka Mella Munoz has a smile that could launch a thousand ships. Her happy face was a constant joy and she was about to make us very cheerful indeed.
Norka was on board as part of Ponant’s Relais & Chateaux gastronomic partnership programme, producing feasts for the passengers along with demonstrations (more pāua fritters!) and tastings.
Originally from Chile, and normally based at the exclusive Wharekauhau Country Estate in Wairarapa, Norka is a champion of local ingredients as well as being the only female ambassador for Ora King salmon.
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Despite it being the first time Norka had run service on board a ship, she produced two magnificent gala dinners starring New Zealand delicacies: butterfish and crayfish, lamb and venison.
Her delicious Ora salmon was served cured with Lighthouse Gin — made with spring water from Wharekauhau — and followed by pāua three ways: tataki, “sausage roll” and an incredible pāua salami.
And the gastronomic experience wasn’t limited to Norka’s delicious offerings, Two gala dinners, designed by chef executif Sylvain Lecuyer featured six-course menus — amuse bouche, potage, entree, plat, fromage et dessert — including an incredible Oeuf Parfait, or perfect egg, with asparagus and wild mushrooms, and as always, the attentive service of Le Laperouse’s serveurs, not to forget the ministrations of its exceptionnel Maitre’D, Anthony, who could convey a multitude of meanings with the lift of a single eyebrow.
BOITE DE NUIT
After dinner you can be transported to another world. One of the highlights aboard Le Laperouse is the Blue Eye Lounge, designed by architect Jacques Rougerie. A long stairway leads you down into the depths of the ship and an underwater grotto that serves as an intimate venue for after dinner co*cktails (or daytime meditation).
Cruise director Desi Izquierdo explained that Rougerie had taken inspiration from the story of Pinocchio in creating this unique submarine environment — and with its whalebone-like rafters and eye-shaped windows to the ocean outside, the Blue Eye is definitely a magical space.
Sadly we were unable to attract passing marine life on the occasions we ventured into the nightspot — no giant crayfish or cod — but it was easy to imagine how fabulous this could be on a luminous night in the Kimberly, or French Polynesia, where Le Laperouse also sails.
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No matter, inside, the entertainment is sophisticated and tailored to suit the surroundings: one night featuring the brilliance of Ravel and Debussy or the retro-cool of Ennio Morricone and another transporting you to the stylish atmosphere of a jazz cavern club with a charming chanteuse. And the Champagne co*cktails are stonking.
LA PASSION
Captain Thomas McCandless’ distinctly French accent seemed at odds with his surname but it must be a question he is asked often; he explained to passengers on the first night aboard that his grandfather was an Irish soldier who stayed on in France, and married, after the war.
Affable and patently enthusiastic about his ship and his cruise line, he explained the lengths that Ponant has gone to ensure its vessels are at the forefront of sustainability.
Cruising, he acknowledged, sometimes gets a bad rap but as he said: “We are mariners, we love the sea, the last thing we want to do it harm it.”
Far more than just eliminating single-use plastics (though it is), Ponant was the first cruise company to jettison heavy fuel oil in favour of low-sulphur alternatives and is planning a completely zero-carbon ship for the near future.
Its ships are designed to be as low impact and eco-friendly as possible and are constantly updated to reflect technological advances in sustainability. And Le Laperouse has an open bridge policy, so passengers can see this state-of-the-art technology in action.
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A LA MODE FRANCAISE
With the wildly variable airfares to the Northern Hemisphere, and the Olympique-sized crowds this northern summer, not to mention the travail involved in shlepping all the way over there, it’s tres bon to have a little piece of France in the shape of Ponant sailing in our own waters (and those of our Australian and Pacific neighbours).
There’s no getting away from it, French accents — and the language itself — are incredibly charming. You will find yourself murmuring “Bonjour”, “Merci”, “Adieu”, and if, like me, you have only minimal schoolday French, desperately regretting not taking it further.
So practise in your suite, and with the hotel staff and crew, who will not laugh at your efforts (and are all either bi-or multi-lingual). Dunk your croissants in a cup of chocolat chaud for breakfast and eat your salad after the main course. Wear your biggest sunglasses, even if it is raining. Take a post-prandial promenade, embrace the joie de vivre.
And finally, if like some of our fellow passengers you had thought that this was an expedition cruise only and — not noting the Gastronomique in its title — had failed to pack Une petite robe noire et Les Louboutins for the Diner de l’au revoir du Commandant, never fear. A Gallic shrug works in all manner of situations.
